Akumal, Mexico: January 2006

Part II: Thursday-Friday January 5-6


sea turtlesquidThursday Jan 5: Over the years we've gotten into a pattern for winter vacations of "doing something" one day then lying around the next. (This is not what happens when we go to places like London, e.g., where we try to cram in as much as possible. But then, there aren't any good beaches in London!) So, having had a field trip Wednesday, most of us spend Thursday relaxing and reading. Bekah and Dave went off to dive in the morning; John, Katie and Gail did a bit of snorkeling in the bay. Katie saw a sea turtle (left) and a squid (right) which made her very happy. I walked up and down the beach a couple of times taking pictures, while John explored the beach and the Akumal version of "rock piles" which are mostly coral (below), which is one of his favorite things to do. I walked across the street and got some more yogurt and pineapple and made smoothies. Then went back to lie in the sun!

John       rocks

green moray eelRemember Bekah and Dave went diving today? Here are just a couple of the fun things they saw - a green moray eel (left) and a Caribbean Spiny Lobster (right). They went with some dive buddies to Oscar y Lalo for late lunch/early dinner. It's in the Tankah area on Soliman Bay and gets good reviews, though is said to be a bit expensive. spiny lobster So Dave didn't come to supper with us at Que Onda; Bekah did but just ate dessert! Que Onda is known for their freshly made pasta and Italian dishes - I think we all had good meals, although John suspects that the "wild mushrooms" in his dinner were not all an edible variety. Katie had the same dish but she carefully removed all the mushrooms and John ate them, so he had a double dose and was not at all well the next day. Our evening entertainment consisted of things like walking around the condo to watch the hermit crabs and observed the "wildlife" on the ceiling of the balcony. The huge moth at the left was one of our favorites; the little transparent moth (the black part is its shadow from the ceiling light) was another. On vacation, we are easily entertained! By the way, the relative size of the two is accurate - the moth was very big!

big moth       little moth
Friday January 6: Dave and Bekah had diving expeditions planned all day today; Katie, Gail and John went out and snorkeled early and then the four of us headed to Coba. John wasn't feeling well but the worst part of the illness had passed and he said he might as well feel sick seeing interesting things as feel sick back at the condo. Coba is a town, but also the location of a very large Mayan ruin under the protection of the National Institute of Anthropology and History (in Spanish the acronym is INAH). Coba was a huge thriving Mayan city in the first century. Even now it is only 10% excavated. We had a very good experience with a guide at Tulum so decided to hire Pedro to show us around. It was definitely worth it as we would not have understood what we were seeing otherwise. Sparing you the full guided tour, I'll just share a bit about some of the pictures.

Yucatan jaytermite nest

To the left is a yucatan jay - we saw a small group of them just off the jungle trail and our guide said that they were ant eaters. They were fairly noisy so I was not surprised to look them up later and discover they were a type of jay! To the right is a termite nest up in the tree.


ballcourtTo the right is Katie's picture of Barb taking a picture of the practice ball court. The left side has been restored, the right still needs to be cleaned. There are 2 courts at Coba: the real one (next to a temple) and the practice one. Apparently the object of the game is to get a small ball through the rings on the sides of the court (the one on the right is easier to see but it is broken in half). Players are allowed to use only the knee, hip, and elbow of their right side. This made it very hard! The winners of the "real" games got the privilege of being sacrificed. Since they believed in reincarnation, this was truly considered a prize.

Below left is a picture Katie took of a portion of an original Mayan road (a sacbe). It is raised a few feet - hence, what appears to be a small rock wall - and 10 meters wide. They have found 16 different roads in Coba forming a spoke pattern; this extensive road system is one reason it is believed that Coba was a dominant city in the area. This road goes all the way to within a few kilometers of Chichen Itza. To the right is a watchtower along the road that also served as a toll booth! I guess if you've got the only roads on the peninsula you might as well make some money off of them!

Mayan road     watch tower

Nohoch Mul

The pyramid at left is Nohoch Mul - the tallest existing pyramid in the Yucatan. And of course we gals had to climb it. This was my birthday so maybe I just had to prove I wasn't that old? Carved into the rectangular structure at the very top is a "descending God" image so we took turns taking each others' picture with the descending God. Then there is a picture I took of the view from the top. You can see that Coba really is in the jungle (we were lucky there was a breeze that day and we experienced no mosquitos). The one building tall enough to be visible is the watchtower from above. Next to that are Gail and Barb on the "top of the world" and below that, the picture of Katie half way down who was taking the picture! Finally Katie captured Barb carefully venturing back down. John claimed to be disappointed to have not been well enough to climb all 138 feet (120 steps).


Barb and Katie on top    Gail and Katie on top


view from pyramid     Gail and Barb on tippy top


coming back down     coming down

Below are some more of the ruins that are excavated - these were in the Conjunto Pinturas area. You may be wondering, as we did, how did somebody figure out what the ball courts were for and that the Mayans believed in reincarnation and so on? Well one way is through stellae. Below the pictures of ruins is a stella on the left and a "translation" on the right. These hieroglyphs apparently tell quite a lot about Mayan beliefs and culture, including the prediction that the world will end December 23, 2012. (Hmm, perhaps we will go on vacation early that year.)

more ruins     more ruins

stela     translation of stela

Friday night Gail, Katie and Barb (John still wasn't feeling up to eating) had supper at the Lol Ha Snack Bar which I thought one of the best values in Akumal. I had fajitas which were very good. We sat at a table on the beach and watched Bekah and Dave return from their night dive. We browsed a bit in some of the shops after supper, met the divers who stopped for smoothies, then all headed back "home."

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