Akumal, Quintana Roo, Mexico January 2006

Part I: Monday - Wednesday Jan 2-4


Playa Blanca [Note: The pictures are mostly Barb's but some were also contributed by everyone else, especially Katie. I tried to credit them but I didn't always know who took what!]
Monday Jan 2: We spent virtually all day travelling. In hindsight, we all felt that it would have been worth it to pay the extra $100 for a direct flight! We were delayed leaving from Minneapolis; when we were ready to leave from Dallas we started down the runway and then the pilot aborted the take off due to an "exit door trouble light." That cost us another hour or more because they had to investigate and then get clearance from many departments before we could leave. So instead of arriving in Cancun around 1:30, it was more like 3:30. But the EasyWay Car Rental people were there waiting for us! They shuttled us to their office where we rented 2 cars (quite promptly compared to the rest of the day) and headed south on Hwy 307 to Akumal. Following the advice of others, we did buy the full Mexican insurance. Fortunately, we didn't need to use it but the peace of mind was worth it. And it wasn't really very expensive since we saved the airport taxes by renting from an off-site company. We had originally planned to stop in Playa del Carmen for some shopping but since it was so late, we just stopped briefly in Puerto Morales to get gas and then went directly to Akumal - it took a little over an hour but was already dark when we arrived. (The sun sets at about 5:30 PM.)

Our condo is shown in the picture above - we were in Playa Blanca unit #7 up on the third floor. It was delightful - we had 3 bedrooms and 3 baths, perfect for 6 of us; and a nice "great room" plus balcony. To introduce us all, here we are relaxing in the living area. Katie and Dave in the living room at night (I can tell because they are wearing sweatshirts); Bekah lounging on the kitchen counter; behind John and the table is the balcony; and Katie caught Gail and Barb lounging about one afternoon. While my (Barb's) reading position might look terribly uncomfortable, I confess that I left for vacation with a very unhappy nerve in my right thigh, which became quite painful during the long day of travel. So I spent some time finding creative ways to keep pressure off of it for a few days. It did get better as the week went on! Finally, Katie and John enjoying an afternoon on the balcony.

Katie and Dave        Bekah
John        Gail and Barb
John and Katie

Half Moon BayTuesday Jan 3: We discovered the only real "downside" of our condo in the morning. No hot water pressure, therefore no good showers. There WAS plenty of hot water but none of us ever got enough out of a showerhead. So we had either cold showers or little "trickly" showers. However, that was relatively minor considering all the great positives, such as the delightful view of Half Moon Bay from our balcony - this one is facing north. We mostly hung around the condo in the sun - ah, the sun! - Tuesday morning. Bekah walked down to Akumal Dive Adventures, which was very close, and made reservations for her and Dave for an afternoon dive. After a lazy morning, we walked to town and had lunch at La Pescador. Good stuff. I had an avocado stuffed with tuna salad for less than $5 (and brought half of it back for another lunch). John did some minimal shopping for staples (yogurt, fruit, bread) at the Super Chomak. At that point I think we still had in mind a trip to Playa del Carmen for groceries. But as the week went on, we discovered we really didn't need that much! And the little Midway Market convenience store right across the street from our condo had most of the basics we wanted at not too much more cost. And next door to the Midway was an Internet Cafe. This location was getting better and better! (Though I think we all resisted and did not drop in to check email all week long!)

Off to diveKatieFrom the balcony (looking south), we watched Dave and Bekah go off on their dive (at left) and spent the rest of the afternoon lying around on either the balcony or the beach, enjoying the sun (but well slathered in sunscreen). This was Katie's turn in the hammock. smile Below are pictures contributed by Dave and Bekah - her in scuba gear preparing for a dive and Dave already in!


Bekah ready to dive     Dave in the water

After they returned, having had a great first dive of the trip, we walked to La Lunita for supper. It is a really nice, on the beach restaurant associated with Hacienda de La Tortuga hotel. Good food, nice people. In the upper range of our prices (including tip, it was about $27 each with drinks and desserts) but a bit "classier" than most. Our giggles for the evening were watching a hermit crab clutching a dollar bill and a little girl trying to get it away from him! And none of us had a camera.

Wednesday, January 4. Field trip day. Some of us (probably Katie and John but I don't remember for sure) got up and snorkeled out in Half Moon Bay bright and early. Bekah and Dave scouted the other dive shops and decided to set up dives that would earn them Advanced Certification through the Akumal Dive Shop. We drove down to Tulum around 11; got some pesos from the ATM there and had lunch at la Palapa del China. Our suspicion is that this restaurant has changed ownership because it was recommended highly for oriental food and said to be extremely popular. There were very few others there and we saw no evidence of any cuisine other than basic Mexican! It was not bad but just not what we expected.

Sian Kaan Next we arrived at the Sian Ka'an tours office shortly before 1:30 for our "sunset birdwatching tour." We loaded into their van, along with our guide, Ben, for the drive to Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve and headed off down Tulum Beach Road, which has to be close to the worst road in the world. We got off to a late start because we picked up an Italian family on the way, who apparently were not told what time to be ready so we had a rather a long wait for them. They made their reservation through the hotel they were staying at and didn't seem to understand what the whole trip was all about. They were unprepared for any of it and insisted on being taken back to their hotel rather than eating the dinner with us at the center after the tour. First stop at the Reserve was a short walk into the jungle where we could see the change of environment from wetland to jungle.


JohnBekah We saw termite nests and tunnels, lots of sea grape and mangrove trees. After a brief snorkel and swim at a Cenote (see John and Bekah (snapped by Katie) enjoying it in different ways) we piled back into the van to proceed to their main location. We had a chance to use bathrooms, and look around a bit before walking down to the dock and loading into the boats for the trip through the lagoons and to bird island. Below left is the beach at the Sian Ka'an center and on the right is everyone except me (since I was behind the camera) in the boat watching the sunset. (Okay so this isn't exactly in chronological order!)

Sian Kaan Beach     our boat
We had a good time on the boat ride through the lagoons. We saw some crocodiles but they were not interested in having their pictures taken. We went around bird island for a close look and could identify many kinds of birds - but photography was limited because of the dense foliage. Here is a picture I took of a boat bill heron (left) and a better picture taken by a professional (right).

Boatbill heron     Better boatbill heron

egrets on island osprey nestTo the left you can see the egrets (the white spots) settling into their favorite trees. To the right is an inhabited osprey nest that Katie managed to get the best snapshot of. The first time we went by, the mother flew out and squawked to distract us. Since that didn't work, the next time we drifted close she just hunkered down and ignored us. We had a glimpse of a cute little bird that the guide called a mayan warbler which I think (from pictures I found later) must be a mangrove warbler. We also identified several kinds of herons and pelicans on the close up tour. Here is a tricolor heron (left - and again, not one that I took) and something we think is probably a young brown pelican. Hard to tell in the picture, but that's our best guess. On the right is an adult brown pelican (Katie's pic). Here's the list, as best I can remember, of what we saw: snowy egret, great egret, osprey, brown pelicans, white ibis, cormorant, frigates, mayan warbler, tricolor heron, great blue heron, boatbill heron, little blue heron, roseate spoonbill.


tricolor heron brown bird brown pelican

Then we backed off and waited for the flocks to come back to their island for the night. And that was great fun. Again, photography was very limited but I think from these pictures you'll get the general idea of what we saw. Below are ibis streaking in low over the water and a female frigate (males have red instead of white) zooming back to the island. Below those are roseate spoonbills in flight and then another one (not my picture) of what they look like standing still.


ibis     frigate

roseate spoonbill     spoonbills in flight

sunset at lagoonAnd finally, the sunset. We had to head back pretty quickly since the boats are not certified for after dark. Back at the main building we were served a nice supper - some peppery chicken and good salad. Then the van ride back to the office in Tulum and the cars back to Akumal. We headed to bed pretty soon after we returned.

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