London Trip May 2003

Part I: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday

Cast of Characters: Fred and Carol; Barb and John; Katie and Gail

Victoria Station
Fred and Carol picked us up early Sunday morning and we drove to O'Hare, meeting Katie and Gail there. We flew US Air through Charlotte because that was the lowest price we could find, but in hindsight, we wouldn't do it again. The combination of longer travel time and parking expenses cancelled out the air fare savings. However, it all went smoothly, flights were on time and we arrived at Gatwick at about 9:30 Monday morning. On the left we are in Victoria station being welcomed by the Gatwick Express and on the right is our hotel only a couple blocks from Paddington station, making getting around very easy with our week long Travelcards!

hotelIt started to pour just as we emerged from the tube at Paddington and being impatient travelers, we just marched on to the hotel. Of course, it stopped about the time we got there! We checked in but the rooms weren't quite ready so we went to lunch at Nikos Greek restaurant about a block from the hotel. Since we didn't plan to have supper, we had a sizeable meal which was very good. Stopped back at the hotel to get settled in and get clean clothes on, then we headed off to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens - about a 3-4 block walk from the hotel. (See us on bench below. Notice the sun!)


Hyde ParkAlbert MemorialWe spent about 3 hours there. Saw the Albert Memorial (right), walked through the Kensington Palace gardens and into parts of the palace (pictures below). As the sun came out, it got very warm. But it faded in and out before we got too hot. Sprinkled a bit more but not much. We wandered down several "Flower Walks" and started getting a taste of English gardens. Katie and Gail went on to the Victoria and Albert museum since we were close to Kensington - they said afterwards that might have been too much for the first day cause they were falling asleep. We stopped at the convenience store for snacks on the way back and went to bed about 6 PM to get on London time for the next morning.

Kensington Park    Kensington Palace

TKTS BoothFred and Carol declared Tuesday a sightseeing day and went off to the Tower of London. The rest of us had done that before, so we started at the TKTS book to get tickets for "Stones in His Pockets" tonight. Then Katie and Gail went to Vinopolous and other south bank activities; John and I went to the National Gallery. I was particularly interested in the Pisarro in London exhibition which was small but quite interesting. I had never even heard of Pisarro until we went to Paris and I saw his work at the Musee d'Orsee but now he's one of my favorite impressionists. We had lunch at the Cafe there in the National Gallery; wandered the area of Trafalgar a little bit. Went to Fortnum and Masons and looked at tea. We sampled some at the "Rare Tea Bar" there, then took a bus to Holland Park.

That was rather scary! I had never been on a London bus before, even though the bus system is also part of the Travelcard. So we were not only driving on the "wrong" side of the road, but up in the front of the top deck. . . pedestrians and cyclists kept disappearing and since there were no screams we had to assume they were going BY and not UNDER the bus!

Kyoto Garden peacockWe spent a couple of hours in Holland Park - saw the Kyoto Garden (left), roses, iris garden, the Azalea walk, various pompous peacocks (right), aggressive squirrels and many rhododendrons. Took the tube back to Lancaster Gate around 4:30  PM - time for a rest before dinner and the show. We had dinner with Saul's at the Sawyer Arms - on London St. just a block from the hotel. "Traditional English" food which we thought we should have at least once. I thought it was good "comfort food" - similar to a pot pie.

We had a minor adventure getting to the play since the Bakerloo line was closed due to a fire. Scary That meant quick rearranging plans and being in a big hurry instead of having plenty of time. But we got there just as it was starting. Great show. Two guys (Brian Doherty and Rupert Degas) played 14 different roles - including female ones. It was a bit hard at first to pick up the accents (Irish) and the various roles but after a few minutes we got into it. Funny, sad, heartwarming. Probably the best of the 3 plays we saw (in my opinion)!

Chelsea Flower showWednesday was Chelsea Flower Show day! (Fred, Barb and John at left.) The focal point of the trip. CROWDS of people (of course, what did I expect?) and gazillion exhibits. The queue to see the largest of the Show Gardens was about 2 hours long so we skipped those. But I believe we saw just about everything else, including the John Deere exhibit which made me laugh that we travelled to London to see John Deere tractors made right here in Iowa! We had lunch at the Food Court on the grounds - it was so crowded we just had to sit on the floor to eat. (See Katie and Gail in their little spot.) But that was okay - they hadn't run out of floor space yet.

eating in the crowdThere were lots of plants we'd never heard of but we soon learned why - they won't grow in the midwest. It's either too hot or too cold or both! Which is very frustrating for John who got all these good ideas and now has to explore the possibility of substitutes. It was rather amusing, however, when we would ask if they were hardy to -30 degrees (which interestingly is just about the same in Fahrenheit and Celsius). Although everyone there recognized we were from "the States" by our accents, that usually brought a look of horror along with "Where do you live?"

Below is just a sample of the many, many beautiful, interesting, creative and fun sights to be seen!

columbines    courtyard
gnome    streptocarcus

flower clock

We were quite exhausted by the end of the day. Katie had made reservations at the Hunan Restaurant on Pimlico Road (just a few blocks away) that was recommended by a friend. And that was an experience! There are no menus here. The owner just wanders over and asks what you like. Then he starts sending food out. It's a bit like dim sum I guess - they just keep coming out with more and more food in small portions for everybody to try. It was really quite fun, though we began to worry that the price was going to be horrendous. But actually, after walking miles and miles and fighting crowds all day, we were just as happy to sit there and let them keep bringing us food for hours! We had soup, a green bean tempura-like thing, mushrooms, little fish and salmon rolls, something with hunks of steak, sesame chicken, peas and scallops, pork rolls, chicken roll-ups, spinach in sesame batter - probably something else I've forgotten - and finally duck (in two versions: the hot, spicy one and the "Barb" style). So that was our one "expensive" meal for the trip; but it was not out of line with what we got and it was a fun end to a unique day.

To Part 2. . . .

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