(After we spent 2 fun weeks in Amsterdam, we flew home via Icelandair and took advantage of their option to stop in Reykjavik for 5 days. This is the story of that part of our trip. It includes the narrative and details of what we saw, how we got there, etc. and also some of the photos. To see the rest of the Iceland photos, with identifying captions but no explanations, please go to the Pictures Without Comment sections here.)
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(If you want to see larger images for detail, all of the pictures in the trip log can be enlarged by clicking on them.) Friday
May 29 was
our checkout and travel day from Amsterdam to
Reykjavik. Thankfully it
wasn't raining while we walked from our B&B to Amsterdam's
Central Station. Train tickets
were 5.1 € each – we had a longish wait
while a family ahead of me figured out where they were going and how to
get there, but we had
plenty
of time. We had no
problems finding where to go
at Schipol; the checkin line was long even at 3 hours early so The trip from the airport is about 45 minutes and, though much of it follows the coast, it's pretty desolate - I think a lot of that area is still volcanic and just gradually returning to soil.
The monument to the right, very near the grocery store, should have been our first clue about Reykjavik's quirky art and culture. It is titled "Worlds Within a World" by Sigurður Guðmundsson - but I didn't find out until we were back in the US that this is a monument to the role-playing game EVE Online!
We went back to the apartment and unpacked; talked a little about what we wanted to do the next day, reserved a spot for a walking tour the next morning and went to bed around 10 PM local time (midnight by our bodies' Amsterdam time). Our only sleeping problem was that the sun doesn't set until after 11 PM and is back up at 3 AM! Fortunately I have a sleep mask and ear plugs (there are odd noises in old creaky houses) so it worked okay. Saturday May 30 -
Erik was an excellent guide! He included lots of history, stories and insights into Icelandic culture. We walked around the downtown area and ended up indoors at City Hall. Below are a few of the places he took us (lots more pictures in the "Pictures" section). From left to right: Arnarhóll, a grassy hill capped by a statue of Ingólfur Amarson, said to be the first settler in Reykhavik (circa 874); in the center, Erik is explaining to us about the memorial to Women's Rights designed by Ólöf Nordal and dedicated to early suffragette Bríet Bjarnhédinsdóttir. Finally, on the right is a view of City Hall sitting over the end of Lake Tjörnin. Because of its position near the center of town, we walked by and around the lake almost every day so there will be lots more pictures of that area!
We had some very good ice cream – creamier than we typically get in the US. Walking down to the harbor, we saw the Sun Voyager sculpture, appreciated the modern Harpa Performance Center and also gawked at its interior, then continued along the harbor walk. Sun Voyager by Jón Gunnar Árnason Harpa Performing Arts Center Interior of the Harpa
Sunday May 31- John went to church at the Hallgrimskirkja this morning as he was anxious to hear the music in that beautiful arching sanctuary (at right). He enjoyed it very much even though the liturgy was in Icelandic! I chose to walk around town some more starting with the Domkirkjan - the "cathedral" - mother church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland. Construction began in 1788 but repairs and reconstruction continued and it wasn't consecrated until 1796. Across the street from the church, I wandered through the small garden behind the Parliament building, where Tryggvi Gunnarsson, former Prime Minister, is buried and finally spent some time walking around the lake, enjoying some of the art work and the water birds. There are dozens of statues and sculptures around the lake and all over town actually. And I saw Whooper Swans and an Eider Duck for the first time. On the left is the Domkirkjan and then two pictures of the public garden behind Parliament. Four of the many, many works of art around the lake are shown below: The Mermaid (adorned by a gull), by Nína (Walker) Sæmundsson, based on the tale of the Sirens' song; The Settler Woman by Gunnfríður Jónsdóttir; Boy and Girl (aka Kelly and Steven) by Þorbjörg Pálsdóttir and the Peace Stone, a gift from Hiroshima. The first three are part of a collection recognizing female sculptors. Below I show a view across from the south west side ofthe lake including the Fríkirkjan (Free Church of Iceland, established in 1899), an eider duck and two Whooper Swans among other floating friends. After lunch we went on a Puffin Express tour out to one of the puffin islands. Everybody locally is saying the spring is about a month late this year, and that the puffins are also about a month late – but they have finally arrived and we saw plenty of them! It clouded over by afternoon, but the birds were still out. A few pictures from the boat ride: my favorite view on the way out, Engey Lighthouse (yellow) and Grotta lighthouse (white). Below that are puffins in the water, puffins on their island and the Reykjavik skyline coming back into the harbor. Walking back to the apartment from the harbor, we took a short detour and went to look at the nearby Roman Catholic Church: Christ the King (Kristssokn). It was designed by Guðjón Samúelsson, who also designed the Hallgrimskirkja - you'll see the resemblance when we visit that one tomorrow - and it was consecrated in 1929. The sculpture is in the church yard - Kӧllun or "Vocation" by Steinunn Thorarinsdottir.Back
at the apartment I created some
hot cocoa to warm up. Gunnar
had cocoa powder in the staples cabinet and we had milk and sugar in
the apartment! It was very
good. We had supper at Fjalakotturinn. I should have paid more attention since there were signs up saying "New Menu!" But Trip Advisor had rated it one $ (that is: very low priced) and reviewers spoke of how reasonable it was, especially for right downtown, so we thought we knew what to expect. Not! Our 1 appetizer (seafood soup), 1 dessert (chocolate raspberry tart), 2 entrée (blue ling and salmon), 2 beer meal cost about $112 (+ tip)! It was great food and great service, just not the "cheap eats" we were expecting. Again, my own fault – I just didn't read the new menu carefully before we went in and, for the quality and in Reykjavik the price was about right. Tomorrow we have museums and art galleries on the agenda – I think we're going to get Reykjavik City Cards and see how much we can fit into one day. Tuesday is our Golden Circle day; then Wed we'll pick up whatever we didn't get to Monday. Monday June 1
We started at the Hallgrimskirkja church because it opened at 9 am. We retraced some of our route through the downtown area to get to the church. The picture above left shows Laugavegur blocked off for pedestrians only and also providing entertainment and photo ops for kids! Along Skolavorthustigur there was an enhibit of children's pictures of superheroes shown at the right. I took dozens of pictures, including some panoramas but here are three (plus the one above) that illustrate the views best I think. On the left is the view north across the bay with the Esja Mountains; in the center is the view primarily south, including the dome of the Perlan that we will hike to later in the week. On the right is a view rather northwest that includes the lake, city hall, the Fríkirkjan spire, the Christ the King church and the Grotta Lighthouse far in the distance. To get a sense of our walks, our apartment is about 2 blocks closer to the camera and just off of the picture to the right of the big Catholic Church. Obviously it was a beautiful sunny day, perfect for views! The Einar Jonsson museum and sculpture garden is just across the street from the church (left, below). The gallery was closed but the sculpture garden is open and free so we walked through. Here are a couple of the sculptures: the Wave of Ages in the center and the Crucible on the right. Then we walked back down Skolavorthustigur so we could stop at a music store (that was closed when we came by the first time) where John bought two CD's of Iceland music. The National Museum of Iceland was the last stop for the morning. I actually liked this better than the various galleries that were, in my opinion, filled with mostly "weird" stuff! The museum exhibits start back pre-1000 AD and come up to the present day. Interesting to me was that virtually all cultures around 1200 AD or so started going through the same stages of art and development. I enjoyed the older things more since they were "different" and more specific to Iceland culture; once they got into the medieval years it was very similar to other Eurpean countries. On the left above is the outside of the museum, in the center an example of a warp-weighted loom from pre-1000 AD. I was interested in how similar this is to current-day looms (I have a daughter who is a weaver, owns numerous looms and also does medieval demonstrations, so I even understood what "warp-weighted" meant!) And, on the right, is a model of a typical settler house, made from the boat that they arrived in, hence the curved ceiling. After lunch we went to the National Art Museum – Hafnarhus. I should have caught the code: "contemporary art, new developments explored through diverse exhibitions." Which meant that there wasn't much I would call "real" art! It was mostly installation type of art - my favorite thing was the Lego model of the Hallgrimskirkja! Also pictured is a room that purports to show where dead Teddy Bears go; and a sample of the many works by Guðmundur Guðmundsson, known as Erró, that were housed here. Next
we stopped at the
Settlement Museum
(827+/-2). The
name comes from the fact that the excavation there has been dated at
827 +- 2 years.
We
made a stop at the smaller, downtown grocery store for
some basic
supplies and food to
"eat in" tonight. First,
we
just had a huge snack and secondly, I'm still reeling from the $112
supper last
night! So
John got
some meat to go with
his cheese and bread; I bought a microwave penne dinner that was more
than enough for tonight and a wrap to take on our tour tomorrow or save
for Thursday at the airport. Tuesday June 2 was Golden
Circle Day. We
went with Iceland Horizon in a comfortable
Mercedes van. There were about 15 people and we were last
ones picked up
(right Our first stop was at Hveragerdi, mostly for a bathroom break but they do have a pretty nice "Quake 2008" display as well as an "earthquake simulator" - you get into a small room and experience a 6.0 earthquake. The screams tell me that it was pretty realistic! This is also a point where you can see (through glass insets on the floor) a fissure between the continents of Europe and North America.
Next
we went on to Geysir, though the one that erupts regularly now is named
Strokkur (left and right photos). The
cloudy day meant the pictures weren't as good since there was
little contrast, but As we got back on the road, we made a roadside stop to visit some Icelandic Ponies who were hanging at the fence, and passed some Icelandic sheep, famous for their warm wool. Our last stop was Thingvellir National Park. Thingvallavatn Lake is beautiful and I went crazy trying to take pictures of it while on the bus, only to find out we had a perfect viewpoint after we stopped! The picture at left is of one of the rivers and a small falls as we approached the lake area. We walked through a fault, created by a tectonic plate shift, that separates the America and Eurasian continents, shown in the center. And at the right is one of my many, many of photos of Thingvallavatn Lake. We saw the site of the first parliament, Althing, from 930 AD (the white pole just to the right of the center) and the national cemetary, behind the church at the left in the panorama below. The first church was built around 1000 AD, soon after Christianity became accepted in Iceland; some of the timber and the bell were donated by King Olaf of Norway. The current church was consecrated in 1859. From the viewpoint where I took the panoramic picture, there were gorgeous views of the lake (the largest natural lake in the country) and surrounding area. After stopping in the visitor center, we headed back to Reykjavik. Again, I enjoyed seeing more of the countryside. At the left is another earthquake fault and the view at the right reminds me a lot of some scenes in Wyoming! We were all delivered, cold and tired, back to our hotels or guest houses. We stayed in tonight and had leftovers for supper. John did some laundry (in the basement laundry room) while I made a first pass in deleting some of my hundreds of pictures! Wednesday – June 3
At left is what I am calling "mobile art" that we passed on the road; then at center is John walking along the trail in the wooded area around Perlan and to the right, the approach to Perlan from the back. Perlan is an easily-recognized landmark in the city as it is perched on top of a hill (Öskjuhlíð) where the large, round, hot water tanks had stood for years. In 1991 the tanks were updated and a domed building constructed around and on top of them. It is an event venue and also houses several gift shops (including a Christmas-themed one), a casual cafeteria on the observation deck level (you can see "observers" in the picture), as well as a formal, revolving restaurant and bar on the top floor.
On the way back to town, we passed the Reykjavik Excursions depot so stopped to reserve our Fly Bus pickup for tomorrow afternoon. I asked for the pickup time that connected with the 1:30 PM bus to the airport, which should give us extra time to scout food! It's a 6 hour flight over supper time and they don't feed us. While I was talking to the ticket lady, John scouted the cafeteria and decided we should have lunch there. There was an entirely different type of clientele there - no tourists. I suspect many are drivers; and others are just seeking carbs or a low-cost meal. The portions were huge with lots of potatoes, gravy, meat. We should have just gotten some soup because neither of us could finish it all. Probably a good value if you're looking for calories per krona.
One thing that at
least made me smile is at left! (If you can't read it, click
on it to enlarge.) There was what I
would call a weird "saga" installation about a tent on a beach
with a
running video and someone telling a long, complex story. The basement
was full of
video and I watched an
interview with Steina
and Woody Vasulka - artists who work with
music and video. That
helped me
understand a bit – he spoke of the "signal" (meaning the digital
signal) as being his medium for art. Thursday June 4
The bus picked us up promptly about 1:15 and delivered us to the terminal. But the second bus was late – we didn’t leave until almost 1:40 and then ran into a closed road and had to take a detour, making us about half an hour late. I had scheduled an extra half hour so we were okay, but others may not have been. I was somewhat annoyed at the lack of communication from the driver – no explanation, no apology for lateness, no comment about the closed road, just arrived half an hour late! So my advice to anyone using Fly Bus is to be sure to allow more time than they advise.
Fortunately, it wasn’t a full flight so, after battling our way through the crowd, I had a whole row to myself! That didn’t make it possible to sleep since the arms didn’t fold up, but it was nice to have the extra room. Last picture is the Mississippi as we approach MSP. A very fun trip but still good to be home! |